Last year the editors were off to the islands, and as an unpaid GJ writer that
didn't include me, the C2C.
Vote for them to take me along this year, put me on your prayer list, for strange
miracles.
I used to hit up Kauai every winter thanks to Sknappy (hope your riding you're
hogs, safely bro).
But now all I get is, A "View From The Sidelines".
Webcasts, stories and photos, still attract my attention to the greatest shown in
surfing, the Triple Crown, including the Pipe Masters (of the universe?)
alongside freesurfs, the swells at Waimea, Rocky Point, Sunset, name any north
shore spot (or don't, if your mind is on an outer island, just think it
silently).
I get the second hand stories, and they conjure up powerful images, thoughts,
emotions that get the (surf)endorphins going.
Dude! island-schmiland, I can take the fun zone auto ferry to Balboa island for
two bucks, it's technically an island in the pacific.
I can go to Catalina Island in about an hour and a half's time.
What's the problem, haole?
The problem is the lifeguard report said the water is streaming out of the
Newport Submarine Canyon, and as cold as 49° times, these last couple winners (
record I've heard is 48).
More importantly, I am a surfer, not a diver, or other ocean sports enthusiast,
(open-ocean basket weaver, comes to mind).
Plus I used to get a little island style every winter, get my ass handed to me
and eek out some of the best waves of my life.
Now I just relive those memories, vicariously through others and other media
formats, just as you are, reading this.
Last winter, I even found myself asking some of the cool young Newport,
shrackers like Andrew Doheny.
You in the Triple Crown, bro? You going to Hawaii?
The the young shredders, Droid, both told me they were going over in January-
February.
Bingo! That's when I used to go. The memories flood back, mostly good ones.
They are really stoked to miss an inconsistent December over there, the last few
years.
The last couple of year's La Niña pattern patterns, have had high-pressure set up
further in the middle of the North Pacific, then typical La Niña's.
Droid was lucky last January and February surpassed the low bar set by December
2010, and November 2011.
Statistically the chances are good, since it's been so bad it should be firing up
by the new year, if not by December for the Pipeline Masters.
I told droid last year the obvious, he was stoked, prime season without the
Circus, (including major attractions and the sideshow skips and their audiences
in tow).
This year, some of the potential drama has already been played out with Kelly
Slater "the alligator" already clinching a preposterous 11th world title. But
there's always some drama island side. The most recent side story being Kolohe
Andino's third win in a row on the qualifying tour, clinching him a spot at the
pipeline Masters, and very likely on the championship tour next year.
